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When curating a ranking of London’s top dining spots, one might anticipate well-known Michelin-starred venues. Yet, nestled near the top among these food titans is a modest salonu located in a outlying corner of northern London.

An Surprise Accolade

This compact Turkish spot, specialising in the culinary delights of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been declared the fourth top restaurant in the metropolis by a respected culinary publication. The honour has left the family completely surprised.

“I’m completely shocked,” says a proprietor, referring to his family’s hard graft that led to their humble place securing such a prominent ranking on a notable 99-strong list.

The Character of Simplicity

This compact space, which used to be a simple cafe before its transformation into a buzzing destination, has retained much of its earlier feel. It seats just over 20 people and, aside from the vibrant live cooking performance, the layout remains mostly unchanged. “It is a small and stocky space,” says the owner.

A Star Offering: Tantuni

However, it’s all down to the fare, and this establishment definitely succeeds. The restaurant’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a straightforward delight. Choice of meat—whether lamb or chicken—is steamed to preserve a tender quality.

The meat is then thrown into a large pan with seasonings and oil, which are mixed in slowly. As the meaty mixture starts to simmer, handmade lavaş—a soft bread—is placed on top to soak in all the juices. Finely sliced onions and a dash of parsley are placed before the flavourful meat is wrapped securely inside.

The wrap is usually enjoyed with a drop of lemon or some pickles. The final product is a mighty punch of flavour, with subtle hints of sumac, sharp onions and rich, paprika-red oil tying it all in harmony.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is sliced and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. The respected food critic labelled this dish “one of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

When it comes to dessert, the eatery’s künefe is a treat. It is soaked in less syrup than is typical, resulting in it a deeper, more aromatic and not overly sweet taste.

Outranking the Stars

Notably, this modest restaurant has been placed higher than several celebrated three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself near the peak of the list, just after other high-profile dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave this place satisfied for less than £25, comparable experiences at high-end establishments can run into many times that amount.

The Creed of Warmth

The restaurant is also among several Turkish restaurants featured and is located well beyond the city’s most expensive zones. “It’s not focused on luxury. London is an expensive city. There is an assumption that in an expensive place you’re going to have the best service and finest food but I don’t agree with that,” explains the owner.

“In my view what is most important is warmth, kindness and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The view is supported by the list’s curator, who suggested that if he were in a role of authority, he would “make it mandatory to have every chef in London visit this spot as a masterclass, to teach them the pitfalls of excess, and to demonstrate what is possible if you do just one – or three – things to their very best”.

A Path of Dedication

Unlike most chefs heading kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the head chef behind the food didn’t apprentice at Michelin-starred restaurants. “I am really proud of our shop and our mum,” adds her son.

Many restaurants need years to find their footing, but this one first opened its doors seven years ago. Its acclaim is due to relentless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“Our mum would be extremely tired. She would go shopping in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. All of it is made by hand; she would do all of this. She is a single mother and she managed a social life but her friends would support her to help her. She had children and a house to manage as well. All of these roles forged her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he says.

An Recognition for the People

This restaurant’s recognition is likely to echo outside its own walls. “In my opinion numerous people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” concludes the owner, highlighting the wider meaning of this gastronomic triumph.